The Leather Tanning Process: A Look Behind the Goods With Grit
It’s been a minute. If you didn’t catch my last email, this summer was rough. But I’m back and ready to dive into the fall/holiday season headfirst. And what better way to get back into it than a lesson on leather? Let’s cut the small talk and get right into what goes into the leather I use for your favorite Middleyak goods.
Leather Tanning 101: From Cowhide to Kickass Goods
In case you forgot, leather starts as a by-product of the meat industry—not horsehides, but let’s be real I can’t afford that shit and neither can you. For the purpose of this post, we’re talking cows. Once the cattle are butchered for meat, the hides are salted and prepped for the tannery either by the farmers themselves or at the processing plant.
Tanning: The Science of Turning Hide Into Leather
Tanning is the process that turns raw hides into that stable, durable material we all love. There are two main ways this is done: vegetable tanning and chrome tanning.
Vegetable Tanning: Leather the Old-School Way A process as old as time. Okay, not really but Britannica Encyclopedia tells me it dates back to 400 BCE and was developed by the Egyptians and Hebrews. The process? After being de-haired and washed, the hides are soaked in vats of water filled with natural tannins from tree bark, leaves, and nuts. The tannins replace the water left in the hide and basically glue the protein fibers together to make it firm and strong.
This process takes time—anywhere from a couple of weeks to several months—but the result is worth it. Vegetable-tanned leather develops a rich patina over time and natural (unfinished) veg tan leather is used for tooling. My leather journey started with tooling so you will occasionally spot some of these special items in my shop.
Chrome Tanning: The Fast Track Developed in the mid-1800s, chrome tanning uses chromium salts to speed up the process. It’s faster (usually taking just a day) and uses less water, which is why most leather in the world today is chrome-tanned. While vegetable tanning creates a firm leather, chrome-tanned hides are often softer and more flexible. Chrome tanning has environmental concerns because of the heavy metal waste, but U.S. tanneries must follow strict EPA regulations, and research into sustainable practices is ongoing.
At Middleyak, I use mostly chrome-tanned leather from a Minnesota tannery that sources hides from Nebraskan cattle. Unlike many mass-produced leathers that travel around the world for processing, my leather stays close to home—supporting smaller, family-owned businesses when I can.
What About Oil-Tanned Leather? Let’s Set the Record Straight.
At this point you might be thinking “WTF Marissa? I though you use something called oil-tanned leather.” Yes. Absolutely. But here’s the deal: oil-tanning isn’t a separate tanning process. It starts as chrome-tanned leather, then gets packed with oil and wax to give it that supple and durable feel we all love. This is the leather that makes boots tough enough to outlast years of wear, and it’s what I use to make my own ruggedly elegant goods.
My favorite oil-tanned leathers are full of scars, brands, and even bug bites. They also feature a cool effect called “pull-up,” where the leather lightens in color when stretched or bent. If you want leather with character—this is it.
Why You Should Give a Damn About Where Your Leather Comes From
Here’s the thing—when you buy from Middleyak, you’re not just getting leather goods. You’re getting products made from leather that’s sourced responsibly and crafted with purpose. Sure, I’d love to make everything from fully traceable vegetable-tanned leather, but that’s just not in the cards for now (and honestly, most of you wouldn’t want to pay for it).
But I can promise you this: the leather I use is solid. It’s a by-product of the U.S. meat industry, meaning nothing goes to waste. Every piece you buy supports small businesses and local craftsmanship. It’s durable. It’s built to last. And it’s got a whole lot of grit.
